Showing posts with label earrings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label earrings. Show all posts

7 October 2013

Flower Earrings

A pair of earrings I made today. The design has in mind a methodology that doesnt require sanding or polishing, mainly just shearing and flame-work (a bit like etruscan?). I would love to make these in 22k gold (of course!) Please contact me if you'd like a pair in gold.
The silver version is available in The Golden Smith Shop. US$250
 Here is the method:


First, roll out silver to a thin sheet, using rolling mills.

Cut out discs, then petals. I use scissors for this- snips or saw would be too awkward.

Flatten and texturise the flowers on a rough anvil, with an antique hammer.

Scribe lines on petals using a double-pointed tool and on a heavy paper pad to allow the right amount of push-out.

Close-up of said tool. I fashioned this from a broken twist drill and hold it in a pin vice.

Dome the shapes using a wooden punch and matrix.
I dont use steel versions of these tools as these would probably spread the already-thin material.

I also stone-washed (not shown) these components to de-burr the edges.



Little backing cups are made using the same method.
 All components, including ear wires are organised for assembly.


The backing cups are soldered to the ear wires. Soldering (not shown) is done under an exhaust hood and I also wear a respirator- to protect myself from potential fume hazards.


The flowers have holes punched through their centres, and are attached to backing-cups with a ball rivet. These rivets are formed from short lengths of wire with little heads melted on each end- and will allow the flowers to move a little.


A hot little flame is needed to quickly melt this rivet-head without heating the adjacent solder join 
-which has a lower melting temperature. In other words, if you do this wrong, the whole lot melts together... or falls off!

Repeat. Repeat. Repeat... Repeat!

Assembly complete.

Bend assemblage into earring configuration, with ear-hooks.

 Looking a little grey at this point, I immerse them in a bath of citric acid, 
which brings them to a bright colour.


I burnish the ear-hooks to be bright and smooth, and give them a soapy wash.
Finito.
I may try some similar versions with elements other than flowers? 

1 July 2010

The Making of Wire

Ancient way of making wire:
1.Bash out a blob of gold into a flat sheet, ( use a smooth rock for an anvil)
2.Chisel off a strip, ( A stone chisel is ideal (!))
3.Roll strip between two hard surfaces- (perhaps two stone blocks)
The strip will roll/twist into a round wire.

So thats what I did. ( see gold earrings above on green)
(actually, I used clay bricks instead of rocks. And a steel chisel. Sorry)
The result:
grosso modo ma bella!

Drawn wire (the current typical method of wire production) is passé!
Well, its very predictable anyway.
Still the history is also interesting. (WARNING: goldsmithing geekiness ahead)

Theophilus' Treatise (early 12th Century) is thought the first technical description of wire drawing.
A solid rod of metal is pulled through a series of conical holes in an iron block,to make thinner and longer.


A page of Theo's ramblings in german, in case you didn't follow my description.



AD 1389. the first illustration of wire drawing? ( Mendel Bros.)





Workshop of 1576. Note the draw-table with crank wheel (apprentice-powered) on the left. Different draw plates on the wall. Drooby hats and hosiery for all. (Stephanus)



1698. The illustration is more sophisticated, but the wire-making is essentially the same. This wire-drawing workshop has a nice wheeled draw-table, and... drooby hats. No puffy shouldered tunics though. (probably for the best )
Note draw plates on floor. (Weigel)
Historical info from here


OK!
Yawn.